Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Removing excess blood

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    irishhanger,

    >The hanger slides till the skin is taking a small percentage of the stress.<

    The hanger should move no more than a quarter inch, relative to the internals. If it does, you do not have a solid attachment.

    >I am wondering if it is achievable to get the skin to take zero of the stress<

    Well, not at some point. If you wish to make significant gains, you must stretch a significant amount of skin. I did this with periods, usually a few days, of dedicated skin stretch. Skin is easier to stretch than the internals. So most of the time, you want the stress to be on the internals.

    >I seem to be able to do this in my first two 20 minute sets but it becomes more difficult in the next four sets. I am wondering if in the later sets I have to put up with the skin taking a small amount of stress<

    If you stretch the internals to and past the margin in the first sets, then it is surely possible for the skin to take more and more of the stress. If the skin is really tight in the later sets, you may need a few days of dedicated skin stretch. That is one normal set. Then the other sets, you attach a half inch back from your normal attachment, and do not tighten the hanger to grasp the internals. That way, most of the stress will be on the skin.

    Also, it may be that in the later sets, you are not getting as solid of an attachment. Be sure your hanger bottom inner hex nut adjustments are adjusted for the later sets. After the collagenous tissue matrix fluid is squeezed out, you must tighten a bit more for the later sets.

    Bigger

    Comment


    • #17
      Thanks again. Sounds like it might be the two bottom inner hex nuts, I wasn't doing this. Will give that a go. Thanks

      Comment


      • #18
        irishhanger,

        >Thanks again. Sounds like it might be the two bottom inner hex nuts, I wasn't doing this. Will give that a go.<

        Hold on a minute...You have not been adjusting the two bottom inner hex nuts? You know it is a trial and error process to get the correct adjustments, to be able to tighten the hanger enough to hold the amount of weight you wish to hang?

        Also, you need the correct amount of WFG.

        Every good wrapped bundle should have these characteristics:

        Enough wrapped shaft to attach the hanger at least a quarter inch behind the leading edge of the wrap, as seen from the side, midline of the shaft.

        If possible, enough wrapped shaft to tape the last pass BEHIND the hanger attachment area.

        ONE pass of wrap at the top, toward the head, then drop back an eighth inch for the next pass, then another eighth inch for the next. This is to prevent a hard edge of wrap pushing against the nerve bundle, on top of the shaft, behind the head.

        Then enough wrapped girth, so that you can make the bottom gap larger than the top gap, when the hanger is very tight. Top teeth almost to slightly meshed.

        Next, the first passes of wrap need to be passive, with little tension on them. Then, you pull more tension on the later passes, where the hanger attaches, to make a solid, stable bundle. This effectively collects the skin, and prevents pinching.

        Use the least amount of wrap, possible , at the attachment point, to meet those criteria. But cut your wrap longer, to go through the trial and error process of seeing how many passes of wrap you need in the attachment zone. Also, you can wrap any excess behind the hanger attachment area.

        Bigger

        Comment


        • #19
          Thanks. I was adjusting the nuts but not progressively with the sets like you outlined. Will give that a go in my next session.

          Comment


          • #20
            irishhanger,

            >I was adjusting the nuts but not progressively with the sets like you outlined. Will give that a go in my next session.<

            You should not have to adjust them progressively. Just adjust them for the later sets. Then the next day, in the first sets, your top gap may be a bit too large. That should be OK. Then the later sets, it should be fine.

            Bigger

            Comment


            • #21
              I think I see the issue with the later sets now. After a few sets there is fluid build up in the skin near the tip and this forces more skin to be at this end. Which means there will be less to be at the base. I do have quite a bit of extra skin at the minute but as you said maybe I need more for the later sets.

              Comment


              • #22
                Was going well but now have an issue with the tightening bolt. The wing nut got very hard to tighten and today when I was tightening it the nut on the left hand side threaded or other. The bolt can now slide through the nut. So to tighten the hanger I need to use a screwdriver to hold the bolt as I tighten the wingnut.

                For longer term solution could I take the bolt out put a similar nut in the left hand side and replace the bolt? Or do you have any other advice?

                Comment


                • #23
                  irishhanger,

                  >Was going well but now have an issue with the tightening bolt. The wing nut got very hard to tighten and today when I was tightening it the nut on the left hand side threaded or other. The bolt can now slide through the nut. So to tighten the hanger I need to use a screwdriver to hold the bolt as I tighten the wingnut.<

                  Were you using lube on the top bolt?

                  >For longer term solution could I take the bolt out put a similar nut in the left hand side and replace the bolt? Or do you have any other advice?<

                  You can send it back to me, and I will fix it. If you want to, then that is a #8 hex nut on the left side. That is a stainless 3 inch RH #8 machine screw. Might as well get a wing nut also.

                  Bigger

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    I wasn't using lube. I think it would be cheaper to fix myself since I am in Ireland. Hopefully the bolt sizes etc are the same here. Do you think I will be able to get the nut out of the left side ok, that's the only part I was worried about?

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      irishhanger,

                      >I wasn't using lube.<

                      Did you get the NOS email?

                      >I think it would be cheaper to fix myself since I am in Ireland. Hopefully the bolt sizes etc are the same here. <

                      Well, you should be able to come close with metric nuts and bolts. Then there are probably English unit fasteners available somewhere near you.

                      >Do you think I will be able to get the nut out of the left side ok, that's the only part I was worried about?<

                      Just be careful not to mess up the plastic seat. When you push on the top bolt toward the left side, does the bolt catch on the hex nut anywhere? If so, you should be able to use a screwdriver handle to tap out the hex nut. If that is not the case, you can probably put the tip of a Phillips screw driver in the inside of the hole, and tap out the hex nut.

                      Bigger

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Thanks for the instructions. Can use it with a screwdriver at the moment so will, got a two week break coming up will try and fix then.

                        Could you send on the NOS email again, if possible. If it mentioned lube I definitely missed it

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          irishhanger,

                          >Could you send on the NOS email again, if possible. If it mentioned lube I definitely missed it<

                          Sure. Email me.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            So tried to fix it. Bit of a metric/imperial issue. So here we have m4 nut and bolt which is slightly smaller than the original stuff then the next one up is m5 which is lightly bigger. M5 doesn't work as the bolt is too thick to get through the gap on the right hand side. So I am left with m4, the issue here is the nut is to small to be secured in place on the left hand side so it will slip out of place. Any idea what I could do with the slightly smaller nut to secure it?

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              irishhanger,

                              >So tried to fix it. Bit of a metric/imperial issue. So here we have m4 nut and bolt which is slightly smaller than the original stuff then the next one up is m5 which is lightly bigger. M5 doesn't work as the bolt is too thick to get through the gap on the right hand side. So I am left with m4, the issue here is the nut is to small to be secured in place on the left hand side so it will slip out of place. Any idea what I could do with the slightly smaller nut to secure it?<

                              If you can get by, just order the right parts online, hopefully from Europe. Or I can send them to you, but the shipping is too much.

                              Surely there is an English unit fastener outlet in Europe. Do a search for "Europe imperial unit nuts and bolts" for something near you.

                              Using metric would involve using Epoxy to create a new left side hex nut seat. I do not recommend you going down that road.

                              Bigger

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                I have emailed a few imperial suppliers here to see what they got. Is there a more descriptive size rather than #8, just incase they don't know what that means.
                                Thanks

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X